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Hi this is Lynnette here and I just wanted to leave a testimonial about Soubhik.
I volunteer with SOSD (Save Our Street Dogs) and have had the opportunity to work with Soubhik on a couple of occasions with a couple of the SOSD dogs with behavioural issues.
One of which was a JRT, Chuck, that had been abandoned (previous owner probably didn’t know how to train the little guy). The dog is now with a fosterer who might potentially adopt him.
Chuck would show aggression toward other dogs (even cats) and when he is in that fixated zone, the fosterers are unable to control him. They can’t even distract him or pull him away from his “target” and have been bitten more than a couple of times. Chuck has also bitten a few dogs in the process.
Soubhik did a house call at the fosterers’ home and spent some time to assess Chuck in the home and on his walk. He then explained why Chuck -was behaving the way he was – he was insecure and full of frustration. He needed a strong leader to show him the way, and a proper channel to release his energy. Soubhik broke down the process from being in the home, to putting him on leash, to walking out the door, to finally approaching other dogs/cats – and demonstrated how without having to say much, your body language can tell the dog so much. When we went downstairs and Chuck approached a neighbour’s dog, Soubhik demonstrated how to allow Chuck to approach the dog without aggression. And it was perfect! Chuck did not bite the dog!
I found Soubhik’s methods very useful, simple and effective for any pet owner to master. I believe a good trainer is not just one that can handle a dog himself, but one that is able to coach and teach the dog owner to be able to handle their dog. I have definitely gained much from Soubhik and will be applying them on my own dogs!
**Emailed by Lynnette herself. No editing involved.
Ding Dong….. Woof woof woof woof woof woof…..
Having problems with your dog barking non-stop when the doorbell rings or when guest arrives? Here are 3 methods that we suggest you can try. However, always remember that you are helping your dog to associate positively to different / strange sounds in the house. Therefore, this will take time and consistency. We do not condone physical & hysterical practices such as caning, rolling newspapers, tennis rackets, spanking, kicking, pushing hard, shouting your lungs out, or banging your room doors down to get your dog’s attention. We want your dog to learn calmness and associate that doorbell, door knocking and guest entering the house are positive experience.
Method 1: The Delicious Bell!
When doorbell rings or when guest arrives knocking on the door and your dog starts to bark non-stop, whether your dog shows signs of fear towards the sound or guest or whether your dog shows over-excitement – use a food lure. Something that your dog cannot resist. Something that’s so heavenly to your dog that your dog rather follows the food and not the doorbell or the guest. Use that to lure your dog to his/her resting area yet door is still visible to your dog and you. Lure your dog into a sit – down position will be the best, but we’ll start with the sit first. At this point, do not let your dog have the food/treat yet. Continue with the lure, then invite the guest in. Once your guest have entered your house, your dog can have the food/treat. Immediately, but calmly take out another food/treat and lure your dog to the guest (you can get your guest to sit or stand) and reward him/her with the food/treat. Following that, give a food/treat to your guest and ask your guest to lure your dog into a sit position and then feed him/her. You can repeat the exercise with your guest giving your dog food/treats as many times. What we want to achieve is for your dog to understand that the sound of doorbell or the sound of door knocking presents a reward with the right behaviour. After which, we will also achieve to help your dog understand that as long as you, the owner allows the guest to enter the house, your dog gets a reward for following your response to the guest by being calm. (By Ezra Koh)
Method 2: My Owner is the Doorbell!
Have one universal command for your dog to stop what they are doing and follow you – whether it’s attention to other dogs, squirrels, food in the ground or people at the door. When the bell rings, go to your dog, use the command from the hallway and walk away from the door. Whether to the kitchen, or to your room. If your dog follows you to the kitchen, reward your dog with a treat and have your dog wait while you answer the door. If your dog walks back to bark at the door, do it again – go to your dog, use the command from the hallway and walk away from the door. Before this exercise becomes possible, you can simply ring the bell and knock on the door every time you walk through the doorway or when you come back home. Now they hear the door bell it’s not such a big deal. (By Soubhik Banerjee)
Method 3: My Dog Warns!
After your dog barks twice or thrice when the doorbell rings, say “OK” firmly to stop/acknowledge your dog. If your dog stops barking, reward your dog immediately and ensure that your dog stops barking after that. If your dog continues, follow method 1 or 2, but after your dog barks twice or thrice. This is when you want your dog to warn your of strangers or when there’s someone at the door. (By Jeremy Lim)
Note: These methods work with consistency and a lot of practice, but it goes a long way. Of course you can only start using this methods if your dog do not present defensive behaviour or guarding behaviour at the door or to guest. If they do, consult a professional.
This article is put together by our team of dog behaviourist!
As we celebrate the Chinese New Year with countless house visitations, exchanging of Mandarin oranges and for the unmarried, collecting of red packets $$, let us not forget about our doggies. Not everyone has the luxury of bringing along their dogs for house visitation as the culture in Singapore is still not very open and more Singaporeans are still on-the-way of being educated. With that in mind, don’t forget to walk your dog(s) in the morning before you head out for visitations. That’s not all – remember to leave mental stimulating toys or IQ toys for your doggies while the human is out filling stomachs with Chinese New Year goodies.
And lastly, don’t forget to walk your dog again when you come back. As much as driving in Singapore is really a pain and it’ll be really tiring, especially during this festive season, our responsibility as dog owners cannot be neglected. We have to continue learning the right way to live and work hand-in-paw with our dog(s).
But are those dogs really aggressive?
In my experience, a dog will only bite if the person/owner has trigger off a stimuli that causes the dog to react in such a manner, or if the person/owner has disrespected the dog. Whether in terms of space invasion or stepping beyond the comfort zone of the dog, a disrespectful behaviour has been read by the dog. Here, I’m talking about dogs with no psychological issues.
You will notice that I’ve been emphasizing about respecting dogs in almost all my articles. This is because dogs are very sharp when it comes to reading the human body language and associating scent, sound and sight into a command or an action. This does not mean that when we respect dogs first, we become losers or followers. As I’ve explained before, this is pure leadership. Like I always share with others as well as my team of associate behaviourists, we must stay current with the latest research and move on from the old ways. Humility in learning makes one a stronger leader. Here at The Dog Behaviourist, we do not discriminate trainers or behaviourists who do not share our sentiments and methodologies. We are all here for the very same purpose – to educate owners about their dogs and to help dogs understand humans. Therefore, rather than comparing between various trainers and behaviourists, we prefer to study and learn from best practices. We often teach people not to carry unhappy emotions when training dogs because dogs move on fast and they don’t dwell on the negative (although latest studies have shown that dogs do carry certain emotions, but I shall cover that in another article). As we learn the same from dogs, we too, should keep moving on.
I’ve heard many times over that when a person/owner gets bitten, they blame the dog. Seldom do I hear anyone admit that it’s their fault for causing the dog to react in that manner. I shall emphasize that whenever a human gets bitten by a dog, it is always the human’s fault, never the dog. And I’m not even talking about unbalanced dogs or dogs that have been pushed to their psychological limits. I’m talking about our companion dogs as well as feral (stray) dogs. As a canine behaviourist, my very first priority is my safety and the public’s safety, then the dog’s safety. Let’s be really honest; dogs are way smarter than what most people assume them to be! They are intelligent animals and they instinctively know how to take great care of themselves. Therefore, with that level of respect to dogs, I always ensure that when handling a behavioural consultation, I do not act as a hero. I take care to stay sharp and alert. If I’m able to handle a reactive dog without getting bitten, I know that I’ve respected the dog, and the dog is respecting me in return. But if I get bitten, I know that I’ve disrespected the dog’s space or comfort level.
In a recent session I had with a client, her dog Sally (not the dog’s real name) nipped my foot when I entered the house. At the first instance, it may seem like Sally was the one at fault. But in retrospect, I went in the door too fast, knowing that Sally is very nervous and defensive. Due to that sudden movement of the door opening and someone foreign walking in, Sally reacted, communicating to me using her mouth that she’s uncomfortable with me entering the door. This is my first time being nipped by a dog during a behaviour consultation session with a client. It was very clear that I’ve disrespected her space, failed to take heed in her high-tone nervous barking and went ahead to enter the door. When she used her mouth to communicate to me that she’s uncomfortable with my presence, she wasn’t baring her teeth. Her nipping was akin to how a sheepdog nips the heels of the sheep, only harder. The result: a small scratch on my upper foot.
I was once told that as long as you work with dogs, you will get bitten badly at least once. But I still choose not to hold this belief. In all my client consultations, I’ve never been bitten or nipped before. Yes, this was the first, and it shall be the last. All it takes is for us as humans, to learn how to respect dogs first. Be sharp and meticulous in reading and understanding the dog’s body language and its communication to us, and you can prevent not just a bite, but even a small little nip.
To conclude: don’t act a hero. Whether you are a trainer, behaviourist, dog handler, a volunteer in a shelter or an employee in a pet shop, educate yourself with dog’s behaviour and body language. If you are not comfortable handling a certain dog’s behaviour, don’t be too proud to turn away from it. And never be complacent when handling dogs even when you have long term experience in handling dogs. It just means you have more to learn from dogs.
We have been getting emails and facebook messages from people around the world as well as from our homeland, Singapore. We find it difficult to share tips without having a clear understanding of issues faced by you, the owner. Therefore, we have decided to come out with a solution that can help us help you better!
Stay tune for our upcoming Online Consultation Service!!
The media in this day and age has popularised the concept of the ultimate dominance of humans over dogs; the alpha to their dogs.
I know that in my earlier articles I talked about pack leadership. This article is not a change in belief, but to further clarify and help everyone understand that the idea of leadership (even towards our dogs) encompasses more than just being domineering. My earlier article on being a pack leader was in the context of having 4 or more dogs. More importantly, today I am going to address how one can be a strong leader to their dogs. It holds similar principles in your workplace and even in your family (especially as the male of the household or as parents to your kids).
Being a leader is not equivalent to being a boss or an alpha. It simply means that you know how to give respect before getting respect. Respect is what everyone wants and needs; but respect has to be earned. Between a human and a dog, humans have to respect dogs for who they are, how they are and how God have created them. This will determine our attitude and hence our approach towards our dogs. We do recognise that we are the superior being – we can rationalise, deduce, and perform tasks that are impossible for dogs. For that reason, we must model what respect is and approach God’s creation with respect.
So, back to our topic on correction and reward. How do we know when to correct and when to reward, and exactly what’s the difference? This is where I would like to highlight the application of true leadership. A leader will correct someone for a mistake, and after the wrong has ‘made’ right, the leader recognises and affirms the act or behaviour. In short, the leader rewards. When we correct a dog’s behaviour, safe methods should be employed. Too often, we mistake certain corrective actions, that may be hurtful, to be effective. For example, a dog keeps pulling on the leash. I do observe that one of the popular corrective method is to tug on the dog’s leash in order to control them. When performed with bad techniques and possible frustration, not only can the method be ineffective, the dog can even be susceptible to injuries.
So what are some of the correction methods an owner can employ for some common undesirable behaviours displayed by the dog?
1. Dog pulling at the leash
Immediately change direction if your dog starts to pull or walk ahead. You might have to do it multiple times before the dog gets it. The moment your dog starts walking beside you properly, quickly reward the dog by letting him or her sniff the grass (that’s right grass-sniffing can be rewarding to a dog) or get a treat. The tricky part is to catch your dog doing right and affirm immediately to help the dog associate that certain behavioural display is desirable. If, after rewarding your dog, he or she falls back into the same bad habits in the next instance, conduct the correction-reward process all over again. Patience is a virtue when training your dog.
Dogs not sitting on command
Pulling at the leash upwards (like a choking action) quite forcefully or physically pushing the dog’s butt down to force them to comply to the ‘sit’ command may not be ideal. What one can try is to use food in hand as a lure. Place your hand (with an irresistible treat enclosed in hand) in front of their nose and direct the dog into a sit position. When they do sit, let the dog have the treat as a reward. When you need to physically bring a dog into a sit position – very gently push their butt down with the food lure still in front of their nose guiding the dog into the sit position.
A correction for a dog must always be followed by a reward.
Anything that excites the dog can be use as a reward. It may be letting a dog sniff at the grass, positive praise and of course, food. For example, Scott loves playing with a ball, however he is an anti-social dog. He’ll walk away or sit down when another dog sniffs him (this is the way dogs socialise when they first meet one another). One day Scott meets a very calm and friendly dog and decides not to sit down or walk away for just 2 seconds. Upon seeing that, I will grab his favourite ball and play fetch with him for awhile. That becomes a reward for him. Scott learns that he will get rewarded if he lets another dog sniff him. Isn’t that wonderful? Dogs are just so easy to please, we just have to learn to understand how to harness that strength.
For correction methods, canning the dog (depending on which country and culture you’re from), yelling at the dog, bringing the dog to a time-out corner (we will talk about time-out corner another time), not feeding the dog are not encouraged. Correction can be as simple and gentle as ignoring, walking away, changing direction or making a firm sound that’s consistently used for correction only (it doesn’t have to be loud). Dogs don’t rationalise and they won’t remember after 1-3 seconds the act that you disapprove. For example, Bob tends to bark non-stop during walks when he meets another dog. Bob’s owner keeps pulling on the leash to control him. On some occasion, they cave in and allow a hyper-excited Bob rush to another dog to allow him a sniff since they recognise that is how dogs make friends or what he wants. However, this will only help intensify Bob’s barking, as he will associate that he needs to pull and bark a lot to get rewarded (sniffing another dog). To implement a correction for such behaviour is just by changing direction, walking away from the other dog. I don’t mean tugging on the leash and choking Bob. Just change direction and brandish out his favourite treat in front of his nose and lure him into a sit position, facing away from the other dog. Rewarding him once his excitement has gone down significantly. Of course this takes patience. You may probably need to repeat your correct-reward cycle repeatedly until the dog is able to walk pass other dogs without reacting with hyper-excitement. Follow through your training with a reward, i.e. allow him to sniff the other dog eventually as a reward. (if your dog is reactive is such scenario, consult a professional)
Always understand how dogs think and learn before starting to implement corrective methods learnt from various sources, – indeed the methods can either work against or for you.
Note: Popping of the leash has been taught by many trainers and behaviourist, however, this has to be done properly and the right way, if not it becomes a negative act and is counter-effective. Therefore, for my clients, I teach and advocate more positive approaches.
by Ezra Koh